Chicken Care 101
Whether you're starting a backyard flock for your family or building a small egg business, raising chickens is more straightforward than most people think. If you're new to it, you're in the right place. The first question to ask yourself is simple: Is this for personal use or for profit? That one answer shapes almost every decision that follows.
Basic Needs
Every chicken — regardless of breed, age, or purpose — needs three things: food, water, and shelter. But what those look like will vary depending on the age and stage of your birds. This guide focuses on mature, laying-age hens.
Food
Feed is where most new flock owners get overwhelmed. There are a lot of terms thrown around, so let's break it down clearly.
Feed Types by Life Stage
- Starter Feed — For baby chicks from hatch to approximately 8 weeks. High in protein to support rapid growth.
- Grower Feed — For pullets from roughly 8 weeks until they begin laying. Bridges the gap between starter and layer.
- Layer Feed — For hens that are actively laying eggs. Contains the calcium and nutrients needed for consistent egg production and strong shells.
Feed Forms
- Crumble — Small, broken pieces of feed. Great for younger birds or those transitioning from starter.
- Pellets — Compressed, uniform pellets. Better suited for mature hens and results in less waste.
- Mash — A loose, ground feed. Can be fed dry or fermented.
Supplements & Extras
- Scratch Grains — A mix of cracked corn and grains. Chickens love them, but scratch is a treat — not a complete diet. It is low in protein and high in carbohydrates and should make up no more than 10% of your hens' daily intake.
- Fodder — Sprouted grains or greens grown indoors. A great supplement, especially in winter.
- Fermented Feed — Regular feed soaked in water for 2–3 days. Fermentation increases nutrient bioavailability and supports gut health.
- Oyster Shell — Offered free-choice on the side. Laying hens self-regulate their calcium intake for strong shells.
⚠️ Important: Scratch Grains & Treats Are a Supplement — Not a Staple
Scratch grains, kitchen scraps, and treats should make up no more than 10% of your hens' daily diet. Too many treats dilute the nutrition your hens need and can lead to reduced egg production, poor shell quality, and weight gain. For consistent egg laying, a quality layer feed should always be the foundation of your flock's diet.
📚 Want to go deeper on feed? Read our full guide: What to Feed Your Chickens: Conventional, Non-GMO & Organic Feed Explained →
Water
Clean, fresh water is non-negotiable. Hens that don't drink enough will stop laying — it's that direct. You don't need a fancy automatic watering system to start. A simple, clean waterer that you refresh daily is all it takes. As your flock grows and your setup evolves, you can upgrade. Start simple and build from there.
In winter, check waterers daily for freezing. A heated base or heated waterer is a worthwhile investment in cold climates.
Shelter
Your coop doesn't need to be a showpiece — it needs to be functional, safe, and comfortable. Before you build or buy, ask yourself one question: Will my hens have an enclosed run, or will they free range? That single decision determines the size, design, and predator-proofing you'll need.
Housing Options
- Coop Only — Where your hens sleep and lay. All coops need roosting bars (2x4s laid flat work great), nesting boxes, and ventilation.
- Coop + Enclosed Run — A dedicated fenced area attached to the coop for daytime access. Gives hens outdoor time while keeping them protected.
- Free Range — Hens roam your property freely during the day. Maximum foraging, but requires more vigilance against predators.
Predator Protection
Use hardware cloth (welded wire mesh) rather than standard chicken wire. Chicken wire keeps chickens in — it does not keep predators out. Bury the hardware cloth at least 12 inches underground or use an apron skirt to prevent digging.
Ventilation & Weather
Good airflow prevents moisture buildup and respiratory illness. In winter, add plastic sheeting to block wind while maintaining ventilation at the top of the coop. Never use a heat lamp or electric heater inside your coop — this is a serious fire hazard and unnecessary if your coop has proper wind protection. Chickens are far more cold-hardy than most people expect.
Ready to Start Your Flock?
At Stafford Hill Farms, we raise Golden Comet pullets that are ready to lay from day one. No waiting months for eggs — our hens arrive at point-of-lay, healthy, and acclimated to outdoor life. If you have questions about getting started, feed choices, coop setup, or anything else, we're always happy to help.