What to Feed Your Hens at Every Stage
Walk into any feed store and you'll face a wall of options. Starter, grower, layer, crumble, pellet, scratch, mash — it's a lot. Here's a plain-English breakdown of what your hens actually need at every stage of life.
Stage 1: Chicks (Hatch to 8 Weeks)
If you're starting with day-old chicks (not our ready-to-lay pullets), they need chick starter feed — a high-protein formula (18–22%) designed to support rapid early growth. Most starter feeds are medicated to prevent coccidiosis, a common intestinal parasite in young chicks.
Keep fresh water available at all times. Use a shallow waterer with marbles or pebbles in the base to prevent drowning.
Stage 2: Pullets (8–18 Weeks)
Once chicks reach 8 weeks, transition to grower feed (16–18% protein). This bridges the gap between the high-protein starter and the calcium-rich layer feed. Do not feed layer feed at this stage — the calcium content is too high for young kidneys.
If you're picking up our ready-to-lay pullets, they arrive at 16–18 weeks — right at the transition point. Start them on grower feed and switch to layer when they begin laying.
Stage 3: Laying Hens (18+ Weeks)
Once your hens begin laying, switch to layer feed (16–18% protein) with added calcium for strong eggshells. Available in pellet or crumble form — both work, though pellets produce less waste.
Also offer free-choice oyster shell in a separate container. This lets hens self-regulate their calcium intake. Don't mix it into the feed — let them take what they need.
Supplements Worth Adding
- Oyster shell — Essential for laying hens. Calcium = strong shells.
- Grit — Necessary if hens don't have access to dirt or gravel. Helps grind food in the gizzard.
- Probiotics/electrolytes — Useful during stress, heat, or illness. Add to water.
- Apple cider vinegar — A tablespoon per gallon of water supports gut health. Use in plastic waterers only (not metal).
Treats: What's Safe and What's Not
Treats should make up no more than 10% of your hens' diet. Good options:
- Scratch grains (corn, wheat, milo) — great in cold weather for warmth
- Mealworms — high protein, excellent during molt
- Watermelon, berries, leafy greens
- Cooked eggs (yes, really — great protein boost)
Avoid: avocado, chocolate, onions, raw beans, salty or processed foods, and anything moldy.
Scratch Grains vs. Feed: Know the Difference
Scratch is a treat, not a diet. It's typically cracked corn mixed with other grains — low in protein and high in carbs. Think of it like candy: fine in moderation, harmful as a staple. Never replace layer feed with scratch.
Fermented Feed: Worth the Effort?
Fermented feed (layer or grower feed soaked in water for 3 days) increases nutrient bioavailability and supports gut health. Hens typically eat less of it because it's more digestible. It takes planning but can reduce feed costs over time. A good option once you're comfortable with basic flock management.
Water: The Most Important "Feed"
Hens drink up to a pint of water per day — more in summer. Dirty water is one of the fastest ways to introduce illness. Clean and refill waterers daily. In winter, use a heated base or check twice daily to prevent freezing.
Ready to Start Your Flock?
Our ready-to-lay pullets arrive at 16–18 weeks — right at the grower-to-layer transition. Spring 2026 pickup dates are May 16 and June 20 in Fletcher, NC.
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